Christmas in March

A couple of things about this particular blog as well as the others, in general. I left these pics in the small format to add a bit of interest to the layout. Remember, though, all you have to do is click on the picture and it will open up into a larger format. Click the "back" button to go back to the blog and continue on as before.

Now, on to a Christmas present we'll share with you.

We left the anchorage in Charlotte Amalie harbor and decided to break up the trip back to the BVI into 2 legs. In doing so, we decided to anchor in Christmas Cove, on the West side of Great St. James Island. The island is not that large...almost 1 1/2 miles in length and 1/2 mile wide. Christmas Cove is a favorite anchorage for many of the sailors we've met. Now, we see why! The water was really clear, the undersea life was spectacular and the anchorage was quite calm.

 

Here we are, with the island of St. Thomas in the background

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These pics are of some of the shoreline along Great St. James...we could see down to 30' in most areas without much cloudiness in the water.

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The green sea turtle on the left had a large remora attached to it's back. The one on the right was a much younger and smaller one...about 2' long.

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The coral formations below were so nice, with lots of varieties of fish, sea urchins, coral and anemones.

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The upper 2 pics are of a spotted ray, about 3' wing tip to wing tip, with a tail over 5' long. The middle pics are of 2 stingrays caught in the act of being stingrays. They were smaller than the spotted ray. The lower left is of some starfish, each of which is about 9" across. The area where they were at had over 100 of them in an oval area of sand about 60' across. The lower right is of a school of ballyhoo, a small fish (about 10") that has a long needle-like snout. It is a favorite baitfish for fishermen to rig up their trolling lines with.

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To add some special wrap to our Christmas present, a section of the Rolex Regatta was in action right outside the mouth of the cove, with 2 of the corner markers close by us. We watched scores of boats turn around the markers and then sail down wind with their spinnakers flying. We even saw a couple of close encounters of some boats right near the turn of one of the markers. As a side note, the BVI Spring Regatta takes place soon, and I will be "rail meat" for the boat Toddy is racing. If I'm lucky, maybe I will get to crank a winch or something.

Back...to St. Thomas...again!

When the seas won't stop moving...the rocking, pitching boat won't stop doing it's own thing...and looking at the shifting, tilting horizon only makes it worse...there's only one thing left for you to do...barf! Poor Karen! I would've been dead meat if there were photos to accompany the above, so let it suffice that she was not a happy camper after the first 7 hours of sailing back from Puerto Rico to Culebra. Needless to say, she was better off once the boat was anchored and stopped moving. The sail wasn't really that bad, but we were headed into the light winds and moderate waves, as well as the Gulf Stream current...and we had to tack back and forth across the usually semi-rough Vieques Sound. This required twice the time required to go the other way. Ahhh...the life of a sailor.

Anyway, we made it to Culebra, spending two days of recovery there. Being a smart man, I elected to continue using the "iron sail" to motor to St. Thomas. We anchored in Brewer's Bay right next to the St. Thomas airport, enjoying the B757's, B737's and misc. other aircraft land and takeoff. We decided to only spend the one night there and moved over to the harbor in Charlotte Amalie the next day. Once there we enjoyed an unusually quiet and smooth anchorage. I'm sure it's due to more experience on our part...we are much less indecisive of our anchorage location. Now, we just make a decision of where, drop the anchor, set it and be done with it. No messin' around.

Some of the mega yachts in Yacht Haven Grande Marina

We spent some time at the local boat yard, Kmart, and other places we've missed (including McDonald's). I even had time to take out the engine's injectors and had them overhauled. The marina here, Yacht Haven Grande, is right next to the cruise ship dock in the main harbor. This is a different cruise ship dock than the one mentioned a few weeks ago. It appears that on a busy cruise ship day, St. Thomas can harbor at least 7 cruise ships between the different docks and anchorages.

"Kismet" a very expensive charter yacht

We (I, actually) thought it would be fun to play a nautical version of "slap the bull" like in the movie " Wild Hogs". The owner/crew of Kismet didn't see me that evening, so no foul, right?

Our evenings seem to always end with a spectacular sunset of some kind. This one Karen took overlooking the marina office at Yacht Haven Grande, from our boat anchored just off of the cruise ship dock and marina. She seems to always catch just the right moment or scene on our camera.

Puerto Rico, day 2

Our next adventure in Puerto Rico, and the 2nd marina we visited for our boat-storage questions was Palmas Del Mar.

Wow!

It was absolutely beautiful. The grounds are landscaped so nice with waterfalls, golf courses, walking and bicycling paths. The facility has condos, hotels with some of the designated driving areas for golf carts only. Oh yes, I forgot, it has a marina. There isn't room for 1,000 boats, but it sure was nice.

Did I mention swimming pools? The marina has it's own little lounging area next to the clubhouse...

that includes it's own pool...

with a professional wait staff ready to tend to all of your alcohol and hoighty-toighty snack needs! Rumor has it that he likes to wear tropical shirts to liven up the quests' view. He specializes in small, finger-sized fishy foods.

The marina manager is looking over her domain in the unfinished clubhouse. She anticipates that she will be able to accomodate our vessel in one of the nicest areas of the marina...for 1/2 the going rate. We'll think about it!

On our way back to the boat, we saw a nice view of the Eastern mountains of Puerto Rico. This area includes El Yunque rainforest. The literature claims it is the only rainforest in the U.S. I guess some of the areas in Hawaii aren't in the same category. Being an ex-Washington State resident, I seem to recall the claim to the Olympic National Forest which is classified, I believe, as a rainforest. I know, for a fact, it rains there.

Our plan is to revisit Puerto Rico via rental car to see many sights, such as the Arecibo radio telescope (featured in Contact and one of the James Bond movies) as well as the forts and sights of San Juan.

After our visit to Puerto Rico, we sailed back to Culebra, then on to St. Thomas. We'll pick up on those blogs next.

Puerto Rico...day 1

Well, it's been some time since we've had the internet and the opportunity to spend time catching up on the blogs. This means that I'm writing about Puerto Rico almost 2 weeks late. Hopefully, it's still there (Puerto Rico) so I won't be wasting everyone's time reading about it.

In Vieques Sound and approaching Fajardo, Puerto Rico

We sailed from Culebra, leaving at daybreak. The seas were calm leaving the bay, but became larger in Vieques Sound. In a previous life, we would have been intimidated with the minor Atlantic swells of 4 to 6'. Vieques Sound is bordered on the North and South by Culebra and Vieques, with Puerto Rico to the West. The swells of the North Atlantic are somewhat unobstructed here. Adding more fun, the Gulf Stream rises from the deep waters and crosses the shelf area around the islands, picking up speed and turbulence as it moves Westward. We were able to sail on a broad reach, with the following seas, making our longest trip yet (22 nautical miles) in record time.

The fountain in the marina's courtyard area

We decided to spend the next two nights in Puerto Del Rey Marina. This is the largest marina in the Caribbean, with over a 1,000 slips for boats. We were hoping they would have space in their storage area for our boat this summer. We put our name on the list and will have to wait and see. It is our hope to have the boat hauled out of the water and stored, on stands, during the hurricane season.

The outside dining area was nice

We had such a pleasant stay. The marina has a number of businesses that cater to the fishing and boating industry. Although some of the slips had sailboats and large motoryachts, 80% were fishing boats of different sizes. The slip we used provided us with electric power and water. Our boat's 110v electric supply cable is located on the stern (back) of the boat. This requires us to back into slips rather than steering in bow first, since our cord is too short to span the length of our boat. Karen backed us in perfectly; this is no easy task because sailboats are notorious for poor manuevering in reverse.

Quatro Huevos Magnifico

We rented a car from Thrifty and spent the afternoon heading towards the shopping mall. Yes, Karen misses shopping. 3 hours of looking at dresses in various stores. I had forgotten that most malls cater towards clothes, and usually women's clothes. I must admit, though, that she sure looks good.

So, you are wondering: "What does this have to do with a pan full of eggs?" Well, we stopped at a grocery store to reprovision the boat for the week. I made us fried eggs and hashbrowns for breakfast the next morning. The double-yokers were a nice surprise. It made me think of Puerto Rican chickens on steroids...kinda like my wife, looking for dresses in a mall after being deprived for 8 months!

South of Fajardo, looking Northwest towards Yunque rainforest area

Anyway, we saw some really nice countryside around the area of Fajardo. Karen thinks some of the areas remind her of Montana, with the hills and trees...

Unripe "BigMacs"?

and cattle. This is the 1st herd of cattle we've seen since leaving the states. They look like some sort of Brahma variety.

But, just like the trees and cattle, the road signs are similar in shape but there's something lost in the translation.

The toll roads were a new one for us...we haven't seen toll roads since our visit to Florida. There are no toll booths in Montana, but then, there's a lot of chuckholes and gravel. And frostheaves, snowdrifts, tumbleweed and Road Construction.

The SWEETEST thing about our rental car and 1st tour of Puerto Rico?

The fact that my MT driver's license was expired, so Karen had to do ALL of the driving, whilst I enjoyed the scenery, with my feet on the dash, grinning from ear to ear. Ahhh...Priceless!!!

Culebra...by sea (and a dinghy)

We made it to another internet cafe, so now we can follow up with more of the blog...and lead y'all down the path again! As we mentioned on the blog "Culebra...by land", we really enjoyed the island. On two separate days we toured the island by dinghy...1st, around the outer edge of the island and then to the mangrove canals inside the bay of Culebra, Ensenada Honda.

Above, is the restaurant "The Dinghy Dock" where we enjoyed dinner one evening. Karen had the 1 1/2# lobster and I had the shrimp scampi (there was only 1 lobster left). Our drinks were really affordable...pop ($1ea), as the restaurant lost its liquor license. The next pic is the gantry of Culebra's only drawbridge. It should be in fairly good condition, as it has only been used once...it became stuck on the day it was commissioned and it hasn't been raised since...30 years ago. 

The next pic is a view past the drawbridge, and approaching the dinghy dock of Mamacita's, another great restaurant.

Culebra has it's own drive-up fuel dock, but we weren't interested in using it. The depth of the water is about 4'...we need almost 6'.

Further along the canal, were some interesting homes.

There is a nice waiting area for the ferry...remember, it is only $2 one-way to Puerto Rico?

Karen is thinking of making an offer on this place...our next home, she says.

The following views are some taken while working our way through the mangove canals. 

We enjoyed a really peaceful sunrise and calm bay the next day on our sail to Fajardo, Puerto Rico.

Culebra...by land!

Karen and I made it to Culebra, one of the Spanish Virgin Islands. We celebrated our 1st "long cross-country" with a dinghy ride to the dock for a meal and libations at Mamacita's. What a fun trip we had. 19 miles of sailing downwind...5.5kts average with 3' seas. Almost all of it on a starboard tack. The anchor went down in Ensenada Honda harbor and off we went to shore.

We were so pleased to see how clean and friendly the island was. Most of the homes and businesses in the town of Dewey are old, but well-maintained. It's clear the residents take pride in their homes. It reminded me of the scene from Shrek, where he and Donkey went to the land Far Away, so clean!

This is a small art gallery with really nice, contemporary local art.

Pandeli's Bakery is where we "surfed" and did our blog. It has the only reliable (and fast) internet wifi.

Another scene of the downtown area. Not much traffic and only one gas station on the island. We have heard they run out of gas a lot, so planning is essential.

This is one of the churches of the island, in the center of town.

Hotel Kokomo is on the South side of Dewey, across the street from the ferry dock.

This is the pavilion where the numerous ferry passengers wait the passing of time, "limin style". The fare, one way to Fajardo (Puerto Rico), is $2...what a deal.

Culebra is one of our favorite islands so far. It really makes us want to improve our Spanish speaking skills...almost everything is written in Spanish...the road signs, newspapers, restaurant menus, etc. Fortunately, almost all of the residents are bilingual.